I had access to a lot of the underground clubs that were going on at the time. I don’t think there were many pictures of those Sunday mornings, because it was only open on Sunday mornings. The legendary DJ Junior Vasquez would play right the way through—these 12-, 14-, even 16-hour sets. The only thing that came close was DC-10, when it first started in Ibiza about 15 or 16 years ago. I remember pulling out a mobile phone in 1990 and being thrown out a pub in Brixton because the only people that had phones then were drug dealers.I took those pictures and just put them in a file and didn’t look at them for 25 years. It was the art and fashion photographer, Richard Avedon, who set it up.I’m not trying to make a living out of the fashion world. I’ve taken documentary photographs of a factory that makes fashion. It just happens to be that fashion people seem to find something in my work that they like. But when I made these pictures with Isaac, I enjoyed the scenario and the chaotic energy of what was going on in his atelier.Once, before a show, Madonna arrived with her entourage back before she became what she is now.They weren’t like little skinny girls being chaperoned in groups of four or five. I used to have quite good times with Michael Hutchence, who was dating Helena Christensen.I used to go out drinking late with him sometimes at afterhours bars in New York. He always came to my exhibitions over the years, and we’d have coffee and we’d talk. Photographing his process, I realized that it’s extremely hard to create collection after collection, every six months.I documented him for the next three to four years, depending on when the fittings were.I would do a few weeks before the show, and then the show itself.
From 1989 to 1993, British photographer Nick Waplington documented the extroverted yet exacting designer Isaac Mizrahi during his high fashion zenith, surrounded by supermodel muses such as Cindy Crawford and Christy Turlington.
He’s always been an extremely theatrical guy, and I was always surprised that he wasn’t an actor.